Amaryllis flower care at home during and after flowering propagation. Amaryllis - planting and care at home, photos of species How to plant indoor amaryllis correctly

Indoor flower amaryllis (Amaryllis) is a perennial bulbous plant that is part of the Amaryllis family. Initially, amaryllis was born in South Africa, namely in the vicinity of the Olifants River. Further geographical growth can be traced to Australia, Japan and the English Channel on the island of Jersey.

In 1753 the Swedish scientist Carl Linnaeus gave it a name and identified it as a separate species from lilies, to which it was classified. Before this it was called lionnarcissus. Many correlate amaryllis and hippeastrum to one type. Disputes on this matter do not stop.

The plants do not differ much in any way, either in planting or care. It’s just that Hippeastrum has a much larger bulb, flower and boom height, and there are about two thousand varieties. Even in some stores they are unintentionally confused and presented instead of one another.

For a long period of time it was believed that there was one species - Amaryllis belladonna"Amaryllis belladonna", but in modern times Amaryllis sarniensis and Amaryllis paradisicola have begun to be isolated.

Amaryllis care at home

What types of amaryllis bulbs can there be?

Amaryllis grows from a bulb, the diameter of which can reach 11 cm. The leaves are oblong in shape up to 55 cm and up to 3 cm wide. Each planted bulb can throw out one (less often two) full fleshy arrows 40-70 cm, on which funnel-shaped fragrant inflorescences are placed (a pleasant difference from the odorless hippeastrum) up to 8 cm, a wide variety of colors from white to red and purple. The size of the peduncle and the flower itself depends on the variety. Blooming usually occurs in the last winter months or the first spring months. How to make amaryllis bloom after dormancy? Experienced gardeners can force their pet to bloom at the right time, even 2 times a year.

Indoor amaryllis does not require complicated care. By following the rules of lighting, watering and humidity, you will achieve lush and long-lasting flowering that will delight you and those around you.

Follow safety precautions when working with amaryllis

Although the flower has exquisite beauty, we should not forget that amaryllis is poisonous. The bulb contains lycorine, an alkaloid that causes severe poisoning. Irritable reactions may appear on delicate and hypersensitive skin, even if the bulb is accidentally touched. This property was used in small doses as a means of reducing pain.

Africans used the juice or onions to lubricate arrowheads; a shot with such an arrow was fatal. Therefore, take precautions when planting and replanting amaryllis. It is necessary to use protective gloves and wash your hands thoroughly after work. Make sure that small children and pets do not approach the bulbs.

Amaryllis has an ambiguous meaning as a flower in the home. On the one hand, the sample is considered male, so the symbols will be determination, masculinity, fearlessness inherent in real representatives of their sex, but at the same time, the inflorescences themselves, which most often appear before the appearance of the first leaves, are popularly called “naked girl” and are assigned the opposite qualities such as sensitivity, chastity, velvety.

Amaryllis flowers varieties and varieties

Multiple breeders try to develop the emergence of new varieties according to three main criteria.

What types of amaryllis are there?

Large-sized double and simple inflorescences. Terry amaryllis is considered one of the most exquisite and
popular varieties: white amaryllis Snow Queen, Macarena, Celica, Pink Nymph, Merry Christmas, amaryllis Aphrodite. No less loved and revered are the non-double representatives, including Exotica, Black Pearl, Lemon-lime, Rosalie, Moonlight.
Breeding varieties with new colors of inflorescences or the appearance of multi-flowered individuals. Many people loved the copies with the names Clown, Neon, Charisma, Santa Cruz, Estella, Prelude.
And the third direction of breeders is obtaining new forms. Here, the appearance of amaryllis with narrowed petals and corrugated edges caused a real sensation. They are called “spiders” because of their airiness. An example is Night Star, Santana, Evergreen, Lima, La Paz.

Amaryllis care

Below you can learn the basic principles for caring for amaryllis. They are presented in accessible and understandable language, without unnecessary piling up of unnecessary information.

Temperature and lighting

The handsome man loves indirect, but fairly bright light. Therefore, the best places are considered to be west-south and south-east window sills. If there is no choice and you have to put it in the south, then a mandatory condition is protection from the hot lunch rays of the sun. All parts of amaryllis stretch towards the sun during growth, you should change the position of the pot a little so that it grows evenly, you can make a support for the arrow.

How to care for amaryllis at home? Very simple.

He likes temperatures that are warm, but not tropically humid and hot.
Loves fresh air, but cannot tolerate cold drafts, especially too low or, which is completely unacceptable, sub-zero temperatures.

The end of December and the end of April and the beginning of March is considered the most successful time for forcing, during this period the bulbs are in their juice. They should rest in the summer and until the autumn cold.

Indoor amaryllis watering

How to water amaryllis? Moderately, we water for one day, and rest for three, and only around the bulb, not earlier than the first sprouts of 10-12 cm appear (happens quickly), these can be either leaves or flower arrows, each variety has its own way. During the intensive growth stage, watering increases; monitor the soil moisture, but without fanaticism. On cold windowsills, and even without leaves that evaporate moisture, water stagnation may begin and, as a result, the onion will rot.

Amaryllis welcomes watering with naturally settled water at the temperature of the room in which it is located. You shouldn’t overfill it; stagnation of excess liquid will only be harmful. Increased watering is possible only during the active flowering period. Moisturizing by spraying is not particularly required; you can wipe with a damp rag to remove dust and possible insects, and you can take a slightly warm shower. But the listed manipulations on blooming flowers are strictly not recommended. Also, bulbs that are in the resting stage do not need to be watered or sprinkled.

Amaralis flowers replanting planting

Amaryllis and baby bulbs, what to do after flowering

How to replant amaryllis at home after flowering or after winter? The matter is not at all difficult, you just need to follow some rules and follow the advice of professionals whom you can trust. Next, you can find out a certain sequence of actions that can provide the most advantageous result.

Bulb processing
Pot for amaryllis
Watching the blossom
After flowering

Bulb processing

At the beginning of planting, carefully inspect your bulbs. It is necessary to remove all dry and darkened layers before white tissue appears; this will provide an influx of air and help produce the necessary chlorophyll, which will provide energy to stimulate the growth of the dormant specimen. Invisible foci of putrefaction may also appear there, diseases or young shoots may appear. Lubricate the damaged areas with brilliant green, you can also use Fitosporin. After cleaning, place the amaryllis bulbs in a suitable fungicide for half an hour, this can be saturated potassium permanganate or Bordeaux mixture. Then mandatory drying for about a day.

Pot for amaryllis

The most important thing is the right pot. It should be quite heavy, stable, wide at the bottom, and slightly narrowed at the top. These precautions are needed to prevent an accidental gust of wind or a slight snag from turning your handsome dog over. Naturally, use ceramic and unglazed, this makes it easier to breathe and ventilate.

Depending on the diameter of the onion, one or several pieces are planted, but at a distance of ten centimeters from each other.

The bottom of the container should have a large hole for drainage; a sufficient amount of drainage (expanded clay, small pebbles, pieces of shards) is immediately poured, then a layer of sand, which serves as an additional guarantee against stagnation of excess liquid. Then fertilize the soil, consisting of turf, humus and leaf soil; place your favorite fertilizer for flowering plants in it.

The soil for amaryllis must be selected correctly

Humus
Leaf ground
fertilizer

And only after all the procedures is the bulb placed with the blunt part down; it should be visible on the surface of the compacted soil mixture by one third.
Planting Amaryllis belladonna ends with a location that should be noticeably warm and light.

Watching the blossom

What types of flowering do amaryllis have?

The process from planting to the appearance of flowers in a strong and healthy bulb takes up to two months. And you can admire arrows with three or five gorgeous colors. To ensure blooming lasts as long as possible, place in a cool room and out of direct sunlight. The third peduncle that may appear will not please you, since you will break it off to avoid over-exhaustion of the bulb; the same is done with the second arrow if the bulb is small or weak.

Recommended. After the first bud blooms, cut off the arrow and place it in a narrow, elegant vase, replacing the water daily. The next buds will bloom almost equally, whether in a vase or in a pot, only in this way you protect your onion from unnecessary exhaustion.

After flowering

Surely, many of you, while admiring the beautiful and exotic flowers, do not think about the future fate of your pet, but the time comes when the amaryllis has faded, you have no idea what to do next and, precisely, now the advice of experts will come at just the right time. After flowering has ended or you have cut off the flower stalks, stop abundant watering and replace it with the one discussed above. There is no need to trim the leaves yourself, because through them all the accumulated nutrients will pass into the bulb, which is very important for subsequent development. We transfer the pot to a dark place with a low temperature of +10°C (minimum). The rest period should last three to four months, otherwise Amaryllis will not be able to accumulate strength for subsequent development and may die after some time.

How to grow amaryllis

Amaryllis propagation by seeds

How to collect seeds from amaryllis inflorescences

This method is mainly used by breeders to develop new varieties. It is quite labor-intensive: a thin brush is taken and the pistil is pollinated with pollen from the stamen. Seeds ripen towards the end of flowering. Fresh and mature seeds are planted in a moist, nutritious soil substrate and placed in a slightly darkened room, which should be warm enough.

The emerging seedlings are planted in pots when they are strong enough. Such amaryllis will bloom only after four, sometimes five years.

Propagation of amaryllis by bulbs - children

Baby bulbs appear on a large mother plant; they must be carefully separated and immediately, without rest or rest, planted in the ground. This method gives results faster; somewhere in the second or third year the plant will produce buds.

Problems with amaryllis

Various troubles when caring for indoor flowers can happen, even among called gurus, what can we say about novice amateurs or those who were simply given indoor amaryllis. But everything is not as scary as it may seem; with timely participation, all problems with your pet can be solved.

Why doesn't amaryllis bloom?

Why amaryllis may not bloom?

The onion had no rest interval
Lack of soil fertility
Extremely extensive pot
Overkill with deepening during landing
Too cool room
Lack of sunlight
The onion is spoiled by a pest
Young bulbs - babies

Changing the color of the flower, if they lose color, the reason may be due to excessive sunlight, shade it a little or put it in another place. When, on the contrary, the petals darken, sometimes to blackness, there is not enough warmth and it is too damp.

Lightening of the leaves and drooping flower heads indicate an urgent need to water.

Amaryllis pests

Flowering of amaryllis can be disrupted by diseases or pests

The amaryllis worm is a whitish creature with a waxy coating that climbs up to the very scales and lives there. A sick individual is stunted in growth and sheds its leaves. In such cases, there is a visible appearance of sooty fungi that affects the bulb, sometimes up to the middle. Special drugs are used, for example Rogor.
Bulb mite. He not only lives, but also eats scales. The unfortunate plant grows poorly, flower stalks practically do not appear, the leaves turn yellow and quickly fall off. Remove the onion from the container, inspect it and place it in warm, but not hot water for several minutes. Then treat with Keltan.
The appearance of brownish spots on the leaves suggests that the amaryllis is infected with a false scale insect. Insecticides are also used; if there is a small infection, try treating it with a strong soapy solution.
Amaryllis leaves are turning yellow; aphids may have appeared; look carefully and you can see them. Remove visible insects with your hands, then wipe with foamy potassium soap or 20% alcohol.

Spectacular and fragrant, with large bell-shaped flowers of a wide variety of colors on a high peduncle, amaryllis has firmly taken its place as one of the most popular and beloved plants by gardeners. Planting and caring for this beauty at home can be called easy if you follow some rules that differ for different cycles of its development. And for slightly more experienced indoor plant lovers, it won’t be difficult to even make it bloom by a certain date. It’s not difficult to figure out how to plant, how to water and how to propagate amaryllis so that it produces luxurious flowers at the right time.

Amaryllis and its “double” hippeastrum - eternal confusion

Since they are really constantly confused and because of this they do not get what they would like, you need to learn to distinguish between these two very similar flower crops.

Amaryllis

A dense and void-free peduncle with a slight purple tint.
Its length is 40-60cm.
Strong aroma.
The natural flowering period is late summer - early autumn.
The diameter of the inflorescence is 10-12cm.
The number of buds is up to 12 pieces (usually 4-6).
Natural color is all shades of pink, ranging from almost white to almost red (not to be confused with hybrids!).
Pear-shaped bulb with ash-gray scales, slightly “curly” along the upper edge.
Leaves appear only after flowering.

The peduncle is a hollow tube, which is easily identified when pressed. It has a grayish-brown tint.
Its length is 60-70cm.
There is practically no smell.
The natural flowering period is late winter - early spring.
The diameter of the inflorescence is 6-8 cm.
The number of buds is no more than 6 (usually 2-4).
Natural colors - in addition to pink, red, orange, yellow, light green, purple and all kinds of combinations thereof.
The bulb is round or slightly elongated downwards, with a slight flattening on the sides. Outwardly similar to ordinary onions, but white or slightly greenish in color.
During flowering, it throws out a large, belt-shaped leaf.

Like many colorful plants, amaryllis is poisonous. Its poison is concentrated in the bulb. In small doses it is used in folk medicine as an anesthetic, and arrowheads smeared with it became lethal among African natives.

Popular varieties

The ancestor of almost all today's breeding hybrids is amaryllis belladonna. Thanks to breeders, it was possible to obtain varieties with completely uncharacteristic colors of inflorescences, including variegated ones, as well as double varieties and flowers with narrow petals. Among all this diversity, we can highlight the varieties that have gained the greatest popularity.

Blooming with simple inflorescences

Rosalie - snow-white buds on the outside open in a delicate salmon color with a white coating along the edge and center of the petals.
Black Pearl - dark cherry with a beet tint and black-purple veining.
Lemon Lime - petals are green at the base with a transition to a light lime, slightly lemony tint.

With double inflorescences

Double Dragon - dark red, with rare light strokes.
Macarena - white petals are dotted with pink longitudinal strokes.
Merry Christmas - snow-white.

With variegated flowers

Estella is a purplish pink with a distinct white stripe down the center of the petals. The base of the bud is greenish, with a caramel-orange halo.
Neon is non-double, soft pink with white veins and a green-white throat.
Red-white - double, with a color distribution from greenish-white at the throat to blood red at the edges.

Narrow-petalled

Chico is incredibly striking with amazing shapes, which are undoubtedly the main thing that attracts attention and against which the colors of muted tones fade into the background.
Santana - non-double, narrow, in a combination of salmon and lime.
Lima - with large, luxurious flowers with green and purple stripes.

Life cycle specifics

Amaryllis is native to southern Africa, where spring coincides with our autumn. It is at this time that the flowering period occurs. It is no coincidence that it received the name “Easter lily” from local residents. Having gained strength over the winter (for us - over the summer), the bulb releases a peduncle and the plant begins to bloom. At home, flowering lasts about 1.5 months and only after its completion elastic, leathery leaves appear from the ground and begin to grow. They will remain like this throughout the winter, and as soon as they begin to fade and lose their elasticity, this means that a dormant period begins.

Particularly strong specimens recover much faster and can bloom twice a year. However, often after this they can retire for two periods and not bloom at all.

How to grow amaryllis so that it blooms at the desired time?

You can change the timing of the life cycle at will, and even make it bloom by the target date. Of course, this will not be a specific day, but by taking 2 weeks as a reserve, you can achieve what you want. To do this, you need to “wake up” the bulb 6-7 weeks before the desired date by planting it and placing it in a warm and bright place. Watering at this stage will be discussed separately.

Important! The required minimum of rest before planting should be at least 1.5-2 months!

Home care

Flower growers consider this flower to be easy to grow. The basic rules of care are really standard for flowering indoor plants. The main difficulty is changing cycles and caring for amaryllis after flowering.

Soil requirements

You can use a ready-made substrate for indoor flowers, or you can prepare a soil mixture yourself by mixing peat, coarse sand, leaf and/or turf soil, humus and peat in equal proportions. It doesn’t matter if any of the above is not included in the composition.

Choice of location and lighting

During active growth and budding, the pot must be placed in a well-lit place, and this condition is mandatory. When the dormant period comes, the plant should “move” to a dark and cool place. The ideal room for it would be a cellar. If a transplant is planned for a given year, the bulb is dug out of the ground.

Watering

Watering is one of the most important components of care when growing amaryllis, and it directly depends on the life cycle of the specimen. During the active growing season, it should be watered as soon as the earthen ball dries out. As soon as the withering of the leaves indicates the onset of a dormant period, watering is reduced, but not immediately, but postponed for 1-2 days after the substrate dries out. Then it is stopped completely. However, even a flower placed in the basement should be checked from time to time for acidification of the soil and moistened once every 1-1.5 months to avoid complete drying out.

When the plant begins to produce a peduncle, watering is not started immediately, but after waiting until it extends about 10 cm. If you start to moisten it earlier, you can provoke an early forcing of leaves, which will take the energy necessary for budding.

The peduncle can be cut and placed in a vase with water immediately after the first bud opens. It will bloom for about the same time, but this will save the plant’s strength and it can produce a second peduncle.

Top dressing

The plant needs feeding only during its active life cycle (growth, flowering, forcing leaves). At this time, it is advisable to feed it once every 10 days, preferably with mullein diluted in a ratio of 1:10 with water.

If amaryllis was planted in open ground during the warm season, the bulb must be dug out of the ground before the first frost and stored in a dry, dark and cool place.

Home care after flowering

Amaryllis has faded - what to do next? Let him rest and gain strength. It is best to cut the peduncle immediately after the buds wither. As long as its leaves remain bright and elastic, watering and care are carried out as usual. If it goes on too long or a change in cycle is planned, you can start to reduce watering and finally reduce it to zero.

After all the leaves have been dropped, the pot with the bulb or a separately dug bulb is placed in a room with a temperature no higher than +10C (cellar). It is important to wait until the leaves fall naturally. If they are forcibly removed, the bulb will be deprived of a significant part of its organic nutrients, which can lead to its depletion.

To extend flowering time, the plant must be kept cool.

How to replant amaryllis?

Experts have different opinions regarding the optimal timing of transplantation. Some of them insist on annually digging up the bulb and replanting it in new soil, while others recommend doing this every few years. And yet, it is the annual transplant that will make it clear what condition the bulb is in. In any case, it should be understood that replanting this plant is an integral part of caring for it. How to plant amaryllis correctly? There are certain rules about this.

The size of the pot is selected in such a way that the distance between its walls and the bulb does not exceed 3 cm. If the pot is “big”, flowering may not happen, but there will be a lot of “babies”.
The bulbous tuber goes only halfway into the ground.
The best time for planting is July or a month after the peduncle dies.
If the specimen has leaves, it is important to preserve them. It is a valuable source of nutrition.
In the year when the plant is not replanted, it is advisable to renew the top layer of soil, leaving it at the same level.

If the plant has produced more than two flower stalks, the rest must be removed, otherwise there will be none next year.

Possible growing problems

The leaves turn pale, and this is not associated with the dormant period. Most likely, they are exposed to too aggressive sunlight or insufficient watering. In the latter case, the buds will also wilt.
The leaves darken (turn black). Too wet and/or cold.
The leaves are turning yellow. Possible damage by pests, in particular thrips.
Slow development. It is necessary to check for fungal infections or insects.

What to do if amaryllis does not bloom, but only produces leaves?

This problem is the most common and causes the most concern, and therefore requires a separate discussion. There may be several reasons.

Too short a state of rest or its absence.
Insufficient lighting.
The room is too cold.
Infertile soil.
Damage to the bulb, incl. pests.
Too young plant. With vegetative propagation, you will have to wait 3 years for beauty, and with seed sowing - 7-8 years.

Regularly change the position of the plant in relation to the sun if you want to get an even vertical peduncle.

Amaryllis propagation

There are two ways of propagating it - seed and vegetative (by dividing the bulb and children).

Reproduction by children

The babies are separated from the mother bulb during transplantation and placed in separate containers. They do not require rest; they need to be watered and fed regularly for two years. During this time, they will turn into adult bulbs, which will be ready to bloom in the third year.

Propagation by dividing the bulb

This method is the fastest and most effective. The planting material prepared for division must be at least 6 cm in diameter. The bulbs, peeled from scales, need to be trimmed a little at the top and bottom, divided into parts vertically, after which each part is soaked in a fungicide solution for 30 minutes and planted in the substrate as usual.

Propagation by seeds

The method is troublesome and slow, so you should resort to it only if there is no other planting material.

Among the popular indoor plants, amaryllis stands out, loved by gardeners for its large flowers of unusual shape and bright colors. Its ability to bloom in the darkest time - late autumn - is especially valuable. The unpretentious amaryllis, which is completely easy to care for at home, is suitable even for novice gardeners. To grow this “exotic” on your windowsill, you just need to know a few simple care rules.

Amaryllis (Amaryllis) are herbaceous perennial bulbous flowers belonging to the genus of monocots, the Amaryllis family. The leaves are basal, oblong, linear and smooth, dark green in color; placed in two rows.

Flower arrows are tall, up to 60 cm, powerful; crowned with umbrella-shaped inflorescences with 4-6 (sometimes up to 12) flowers. The diameter of the bell flower reaches 20 cm. During flowering, which begins before the leaves appear, the plant throws out 2 peduncles. Natural amaryllis rarely blooms at home, so numerous hybrids that are easier to care for have been created.

Anyone who grows this indoor flower should remember that the amaryllis bulb is poisonous. Touching it may cause irritation. All replanting work is carried out exclusively with gloves, and the plant is positioned so that children and pets cannot reach it.

Varieties of amaryllis

Modern hybrid varieties of amaryllis amaze with their diversity. Breeders are working to increase the size of the flower and obtain original colors.

Lovers of bright accents will love amaryllis in red shades. These include the magnificent Grand Diva variety with large (up to 18 cm) double flowers of cherry-red color. The pistil and stamens are colored the same way, so only the light spots of the stigmas stand out against the background of the flower.
The Ferrari amaryllis variety also attracts attention, distinguished by its unusual, deep red-orange shade of petals.
The original amaryllis Exotic Peacock is a double star with pointed petals of scarlet color. In the center are white prints, repeating the shape of a petal and smoothly turning into strokes on a scarlet field.
Another hybrid of home amaryllis, Gervase, is attractive with bright scarlet and cherry stripes and strokes, randomly “applied” to the white field of petals.
No less loved are white and pink amaryllis - delicate and graceful. A large-flowered (up to 18 cm in diameter) amaryllis hybrid Apple Blossom, the petals of which are painted white with pale pink veins, is distinguished by the original greenish color of the neck.
Elvas also attracts attention - a long-flowering terry hybrid with white pointed oval-shaped petals, “decorated” with a clear crimson edging and pink-raspberry specks in the center of the petal.
Amaryllis Aphrodite has a delicate color. This is one of the largest-flowered hybrids - 20-centimeter double white flowers outlined with a pink edging and covered with elegant pink strokes.
It's hard to pass by such a hybrid as Double Dream. Its huge double flowers are a sultry pink hue with darker veining.
White lovers should pay attention to the Pikoti variety. This non-double hybrid is attractive with its snow-white petals, each of which is “circled” with a clear and thin scarlet edging.
The double amaryllis Giant Amadeus is distinguished by its unusual pinkish-coral shade of strokes densely filling the white field.

Optimal growing conditions

Like any bulbous indoor plant, amaryllis has a pronounced dormant period, during which the above-ground part completely dies off. Accordingly, depending on the phase of development, the agricultural technology of growing at home changes completely.

	Lighting	Watering	Temperature
Active growth phase	Bright diffused light. The most suitable windows will be western and eastern orientation; southern window sills will require shading from direct sunlight. On northern windowsills, amaryllis will bloom only if there is 14-hour lighting.	Watering with partial drying of the earthen clod. That is, between waterings you need to let the top layer of soil dry, under no circumstances allowing the coma to dry out completely. Use only settled water (at least a day in an open container) and heated to 20-25 degrees. When watering, it is important not to wet the bulb and especially the growing point. No spraying required.	Does not like sudden changes; the optimal range is 18-24 degrees.
Rest phase	No lighting required.	The bulb is not watered; Once every 2 weeks the soil is sprayed with water.	Requires cool keeping (10-12 degrees).

In addition, the plant is protected from drafts, while at the same time preventing air stagnation, especially at high humidity. If you follow these simple rules, growing amaryllis will not cause any trouble.

How to plant amaryllis correctly

The key to successfully growing amaryllis at home is proper planting. If you select the wrong pot or soil, the bulb will not be able to bloom luxuriantly and abundantly or even begin to rot.

Choosing a pot

The diameter of a suitable pot directly depends on the size of the amaryllis bulb. She prefers to sit in tight spaces, so the planting container is chosen so that there is no more than 5 cm between the bulb and the walls. At the same time, amaryllis has a fairly powerful root system, which means the pot must be deep.

The material from which the pot is made is also important. A narrow and tall plastic container will be too unstable for amaryllis with its long spreading leaves and tall peduncles. Accordingly, a ceramic pot is more suitable. It can be glazed or not: opinions differ on what is best for the plant. In glazed pots, oxygen access to the roots is limited; In numerous pores of unglazed containers, pathogenic microorganisms accumulate and intensively develop.

Soil selection

The most suitable soil for amaryllis is a mixture of equal parts of leaf and turf soil with river sand. Some gardeners add humus to the mixture. The soil must be sterilized before use: add a small amount of water and boil for an hour. It is enough to rinse the sand to clean water. You can use ready-made soil purchased at the store for planting.

Planting process

Before planting an amaryllis bulb, check it for damage: cracks, soft dents, dark spots or other signs of fungal disease or rot. Damaged areas, if any, are cut back to healthy tissue. The cut area is sprinkled with foundation or crushed charcoal.

The bulb is cleaned of dead scales. They differ from white or greenish living ones by having a darker brownish tint. Before planting, it is immersed in a fungicidal solution for several minutes. It is best to prepare it using foundationazole; Copper oxychloride will also work. The drugs are diluted in water according to the instructions on the package. If you don't have fungicides on hand, you can use a saturated solution of potassium permanganate. It is not advisable to use biological preparations (Fitosporin, Trichodermin, Pervikur) for pre-planting treatment. After disinfection, the bulbs are thoroughly dried.

Pour 2-3 cm of drainage (expanded clay) into the pot and fill it halfway with soil. The bulb is placed in the center of the pot with the blunt end down and filled two-thirds full. The soil is compacted and watered. You can plant several amaryllis in a pot. In this case, there should be a gap of at least 10 cm between the bulbs.

How to care for amaryllis

Rules for caring for amaryllis at home vary significantly depending on the growth phase.

During the rest period

The fact that the plant is preparing to enter the dormant stage can be judged by the yellowing and dying leaves. During this period, they begin to gradually reduce watering and fertilizing. As soon as the amaryllis has completely bloomed and dropped its last leaf, stop watering. Usually the plant goes dormant in late October - early November.

A little secret that guarantees lush flowering at home next season: amaryllis should not be “helped”. Many novice gardeners try to quickly get rid of unattractive withered leaves and tear or cut them from the plant, not knowing that they are thus weakening the bulb. The leaves, dying, give it all the nutrients accumulated during the growth period, necessary both for rest and for future awakening. Therefore, the leaves are removed only after they are completely dry and easily separated.

For proper rest, the bulb needs 2-3 months. If agricultural practices are violated at this stage, it may wake up earlier, which will affect both the further development of the rosette and flowering. More often the bulb is left in a pot, which is placed in a cool, dry, dark and well-ventilated place. You can dig it up. In this case, the bulb is peeled and placed in wooden or cardboard boxes filled with peat, coconut fiber or sawdust.

From the moment of moving to winter rest, caring for amaryllis comes down to regular (once every 2 weeks) spraying the substrate with a small amount of water from a spray bottle. To awaken, the bulb is transplanted into a fresh substrate, placed in a lighted place and watering is increased.

During the period of active growth and flowering

Caring for amaryllis after waking up can be divided into two stages: before and after the appearance of the flower arrow. Water the freshly planted bulb moderately, being careful not to over-water it, until the first shoots hatch.

After the arrow appears:

The plant begins to be watered as usual (with drying the top layer of soil), avoiding water getting on the bulb. Lack of moisture during this period can cause the flower to begin to wither without opening; an excess will lead to its rotting.
Caring for and growing indoor amaryllis at home involves applying phosphorus-potassium fertilizers every 2 weeks. You can use any fertilizer for flowering plants or specialized fertilizers for bulbous plants.
It is not advisable to apply organic fertilizers (manure, humus). In addition to the fact that unrotted residues can cause the death of the bulb, they contain too much nitrogen, and practically no phosphorus and potassium needed by the bulb.
After the first bud blooms, fertilizers begin to be applied weekly.

Flowering at home lasts from 2 to 4 weeks; after its completion, leaves begin to appear. Healthy strong bulbs can form 2 flower shoots. If there are more of them, it is better to remove the “extra” ones, since too much flowering depletes the bulb. After the buds have withered, the peduncle is not cut off until it completely turns yellow - this way the nutrients in it will pass into the bulb. Caring for an amaryllis flower after flowering, when it forms a rosette, is no different, except that fertilizing is reduced to once a month.

Propagation of amaryllis at home

There are several ways to propagate amaryllis:

from seeds;
children;
dividing the bulb.

Each of them has its own nuances.

Seeds

Amaryllis are propagated by seeds, but this is a technically complex and labor-intensive process. It is used mainly for producing new hybrids; At home, the use of this method is impractical. To see the results of pollination, the seeds are “grown” to the size of a bulb ready for flowering within 7-8 years.

To obtain seeds, pollen taken from another “parent” is applied to the pistil of the mother plant with a soft brush. The capsule formed at the base of the peduncle will ripen within a month. The seeds are immediately sown (they quickly lose their viability) in a mixture of peat and sand and the container is placed in a place protected from sunlight. Moisten with a spray bottle if necessary. After a few months, the seedlings are planted in separate pots.

By dividing the bulb

The dividing method at home can only be used if the bulb is large enough and absolutely healthy. Using a sharp kitchen knife, cut the dormant onion into several parts so that with each part a part of the bottom with roots remains. The sections are sprinkled with crushed charcoal and dried. The slices are planted in washed sand. Before the first leaf sprouts, they are watered moderately and kept warm (at least 25 degrees). After the first pair of leaves appears, the divisions are transplanted into the usual amaryllis substrate.

Daughter bulbs

The simplest and safest methods include propagation by children, or daughter bulbs. If the plant is healthy and receives enough nutrition, the mother bulb begins to divide on its own. Children are removed only when they are strong enough. For replanting, use the same soil as for the mother plant. When separating and replanting, it is important to damage as few roots as possible. The “break” area is sprinkled with crushed charcoal.

Children should not be separated if the plant is already about to retire. In this case, it is better for them to stay with the main bulb until they wake up. Already separated “daughters” are under no circumstances sent to “sleep” in the first year - they will not have enough strength to wake up. Therefore, the pots continue to be watered and fertilized as usual throughout the winter.

Transfer

For those who take the bulb out of the pot every time it falls asleep, replanting the amaryllis is not necessary - formally it is carried out annually. Those who leave it to sleep in a pot need to completely change the soil every 3-4 years and increase the volume of the planting container. Sometimes it becomes necessary to replant amaryllis during the active phase: the bulb can grow so quickly that the pot becomes too small for it.

The transplant algorithm is simple:

The plant is removed from the pot along with the lump, the roots are shaken off the ground.
Using a sharp knife, cut off dry or rotten roots and sprinkle the cuts.
The bulb is cleaned of rotting scales, the “daughters”, if any, are separated.
The bulb is placed in a suitable pot and fresh soil, watered. Old substrate and drainage cannot be reused.

Even if the amaryllis does not need to be replanted, the top layer of soil in which salts accumulate is replaced annually, replacing it with fresh one.

Diseases and pests

Amaryllis is affected by almost all indoor pests: spider mites, onion mites, thrips, scale insects, and aphids happily settle on it. If the plant is affected by insects, insecticides are used to get rid of them (Aktara, Iskra, Aktellik); Ticks are removed using acaricides (Neoron, Kleschevit). Springtails or podura may also appear in pots - this means that the plant has been overwatered and the process of rotting has begun in the roots. Reduce watering and treat the soil with fungicides. If the root system is restored, the springtails will disappear on their own.

It is more difficult to treat fungal and infectious diseases of the bulb. Amaryllis can suffer from stagonospora and various rots. In the first case, small red spots or a border on the scales become noticeable. In the second - soft grayish or brownish spots on the leaves or bulb. In both cases, treatment with fungicides is required - foundationazole or copper oxychloride. The main salvation from any disease is proper agricultural technology.

Why amaryllis does not bloom and how to make it bloom

Sometimes amaryllis does not bloom at home for several years.

There may be several reasons for this:

deep landing;
a spacious pot - in this case the plant will “prefer” to spend energy on the formation of daughter bulbs;
lack of phosphorus and potassium;
lack of light during germination;
lack of heat;
root rot or pests;
a young bulb that is not yet strong enough to flower.

The best way to “make” amaryllis bloom is to carefully follow agricultural practices and regular fertilizing.

Differences between amaryllis and hippeastrum

Amaryllis is often confused with its related hippeastrum. The difference between these plants is insignificant, but still there:

Amaryllis usually blooms in August-September, and hippeastrum - at the end of February.
Amaryllis has a distinct aroma.
Hippeastrum flowers are smaller, their number on the peduncle is smaller, and the flower arrow itself is higher.
Amaryllis leaves appear only after the peduncle.

Expert opinion

Mila Rozhkova

Flower expert

Ask a question to an expert

Exotic amaryllis combines rare qualities - abundant beautiful flowering and ease of care. That is why this plant has taken a strong place in hearts and on windowsills.

South African amaryllis, which gave its name to a large family of ornamental bulbous plants and its own genus, are not as well known to Russian gardeners as their relatives: hippeastrums, daffodils, galanthus, clivias and onions.

But in the plant’s homeland, as well as in Australia and the southern states of the USA, where amaryllis were exported more than a hundred years ago, the culture has already become common. Slender flower stalks up to 70 cm high can be found not only on alpine hills and in the design of borders, but even on garbage heaps. This is due to the ease of caring for amaryllis and the peculiarities of plant propagation, which produce juicy bulblets, ready for germination, instead of the usual dry seeds.

But in Russian conditions, where the climate is much harsher, it is almost impossible to grow amaryllis in open ground. The plant's large bulbs, up to 10 cm in diameter, are not very frost-resistant.

The air temperature becomes critical for them -9 °C. The elongated green foliage and flowers of the crop suffer even with less frost. Therefore, in the conditions of the middle zone, amaryllis are indoor plants with a pronounced growing season and dormant time.

Amaryllis life cycle and home care

The indigenous inhabitants of South Africa bloom in autumn, which in the southern hemisphere begins in March and ends in May. It was this circumstance that determined one of the local names of amaryllis - Easter lily. The bulb, awakened after a summer rest, produces one or two bare peduncles topped with several large buds. The inflorescence can include up to 12 buds, and hybrid plants produce up to 20 flowers at the same time.

Flowering of amaryllis at home lasts from 6 to 8 weeks, and only after the flower stalks have withered, dense leaves appear above the surface of the ground.

They remain throughout the winter, and when the foliage withers, this indicates the approach of a new dormant period, during which the bulbs need dry content at a temperature of about +10 °C.

How to care for amaryllis at this time? While the bulb does not show signs of life, it is important to protect it from drying out and rotting. If the air temperature is higher, in order to prevent the death of the root system, it is advisable to slightly moisten the top layer of soil. At low temperatures, watering is dangerous because it threatens the development of rot and fungal infections.

During growth and flowering, caring for amaryllis at home consists of creating comfortable conditions, watering and feeding the plants. The optimal air temperature in the room where this crop is kept varies within:

20–22 °C during the daytime;
18–20 °C at night.

Amaryllis do not like it when the temperature or humidity in the room changes sharply. In their homeland, plants grow on mountainous slopes, where the air is not too saturated with water vapor. At home, amaryllis also does not need high air humidity, which provokes the development of fungi under dry scales.

Caring for amaryllis is impossible without watering and fertilizing the plant. It is necessary to moisten the soil around the bulb when the top layer of the substrate dries. Irrigation water is pre-settled or filtered.

Fertilizers are applied two weeks later when plants are flowering, and then during active foliage growth. It is best to use compositions for flowering crops with a predominance of potassium. An excess of nitrogen slows down the development of buds, such a bulb produces foliage abundantly, and is also susceptible to red burn, a common disease of bulbs.

Features of planting amaryllis

Most types of bulbous crops are replanted at home before the start of the new growing season. This is not true for amaryllis. It is more beneficial for this inhabitant of southern Africa to be in new soil immediately after the flower stalks wither, when leaf growth is just beginning. Such a measure of caring for amaryllis, as in the photo, will allow the plant to quickly restore the reserve of energy lost during flowering and prepare for the coming dormant period.

To facilitate the release of the earthen coma and roots from the old container, the soil under the bulb is abundantly moistened. The pot is removed so as to preserve the maximum amount of roots and soil on them. Then the bulb is transferred to a new container, larger than the previous one, with a prepared drainage layer and a small amount of moist fertile substrate. The free spaces around the ball are filled with soil, which is subsequently compacted a little and watered.

It must be remembered that after replanting, the amaryllis bulb remains 1–2 thirds above the soil level, and the distance from it to the edge of the pot should not exceed 3 cm.

Powerful roots dry out easily, so when transferring a crop from one pot to another, the underground part of the plant should remain moist. When children with their own root system are found on an adult bulb, they are separated and planted in separate pots of a suitable size.

The soil for planting amaryllis should be loose, light and have an acidity level of about 6.0–6.5. If it is not possible to purchase a ready-made mixture for decorative bulbs, make the substrate yourself. To do this take:

turf and leaf soil in equal quantities;
half the volume of humus and the same amount;
a small amount of perlite, which can be replaced with coarse sand or adding vermiculite to the soil.

Before planting the bulbs, the substrate for amaryllis at home must be steamed or disinfected in another way. If this is not done, succulent roots and scales attract the attention of a variety of insect pests from onion flies to nematodes.

By deciding to transplant in the summer, when amaryllis is in the midst of its dormant period, the gardener can disrupt the natural annual life cycle and lose the opportunity to admire the bright flowering of the South African plant for a year or two.

The main enemies of amaryllis when grown at home:

excessive watering, which results in rotting of the root system and the bottom of the bulb;
lack of conditions during the culture’s “hibernation”;
low air temperature, for example, when taking the pot out onto the balcony or into the garden;
dense substrate in which the roots lack oxygen.

Caring for amaryllis at home is quite labor-intensive and requires attention and understanding of the life processes occurring in the bulb. Therefore, before introducing a South African “naked lady” into your apartment, a novice gardener can master agricultural techniques on the less fastidious relatives of amaryllis: hippeastrum and clivia.

Propagating amaryllis at home

Amaryllis, like other bulbous plants, can be propagated at home using:

children formed on adult bulbs;
various options for dividing bulbs;
seeds

Methods of vegetative propagation do not have any special features. But the seeds are seriously different from those formed after pollination of other closely related species.

These are not dry black scales, like those of hippeastrum, but juicy small bulbs, even inside the fruit, sometimes giving roots and forming a tiny sprout. On the one hand, such planting material makes it easier to obtain new plants, but on the other hand, it is very difficult to protect tiny bulbs from germination.

Within a few weeks after pollination of amaryllis at home, the bulblets are ready to give birth to young specimens. Therefore, do not hesitate. The seeds are sown, slightly deepening the bottom, into a moist mixture of peat and sand and placed in a well-lit place.

It takes 3 to 6 weeks for greenery to take root and appear. With proper care, amaryllis grown from seeds bloom in 4–5 years.

Depending on the development and size of the bulbs, in the first year they may abandon the dormant period, growing and producing new foliage until the next year. There is no need to arrange artificial hibernation for such plants, but additional lighting for young amaryllis will be useful.

If the resulting seeds cannot be planted immediately, they are stored in hermetically sealed bags in the home refrigerator. It is important that no water gets inside the container and that the bulbs are not exposed to sub-zero temperatures. From time to time, the seeds are taken out and inspected for mold or signs of drying.

Video about caring for amaryllis bulbs

No less popular indoor plants. This flower came to us from South Africa, but at home we grow hybrids adapted to our conditions, having much larger and brighter flowers.

Moreover, in nature, amaryllis does not smell, and most varieties of homemade amaryllis have a pleasant aroma. Up to 12 large flowers can form on a peduncle. But the flowering of amaryllis is mostly short-lived, up to 6 days. Flowering times can vary, even until winter, when amaryllis should have a dormant period. But mostly amaryllis blooms in April and May.

Amaryllis and hippeastrum are very difficult to distinguish; only experienced gardeners can do this. But there is one significant difference. The amaryllis bulb is round and slightly elongated in height, while that of the hippeastrum is flattened.

Amaryllis: home care

Content temperature

Amaryllis is characterized by a pronounced period, during which it completely dies and only the bulb remains. During this period, the pot with it is stored at a relatively cool temperature. It is approximately +10-13 degrees with low air humidity. It's a completely different matter during the growing season. During this period, amaryllis will need a temperature of +20-25 degrees, that is - . There is a small nuance to this.

Advice. To achieve the greatest likelihood of flowering and increasing its duration, it is advisable to create conditions such that the night temperature is 5-6 degrees lower than the day temperature. In this, amaryllis is similar to.

Lighting

During the growing season, amaryllis lighting should be at least 14 hours a day. In this case, the light should be as bright as possible. Like most houseplants, direct sunlight can cause significant damage to amaryllis. Therefore, it is better to place it near windows facing east or west. When placed near southern windows, it must be protected from the scorching sun.

Watering, air humidity and fertilizing

Amaryllis is fed only during the growing season. Experienced flower growers, who have many different fertilizer ingredients in their arsenal, feed it with mullein infusion. But novice flower growers are better off using ready-made fertilizers for bulbous plants. In this case, be sure to pay attention to the content in such fertilizer. It doesn't have to be big. Otherwise, the foliage will be lush and the flowering will be sparse.

Preparing for the rest period

This period is very important when growing amaryllis. If the plant is deprived of it, the bulb will deplete very quickly, and as a result, it will grow poorly and, of course, bloom worse. Amaryllis should be prepared for the dormant period immediately after flowering. They stop completely, and watering is gradually reduced in frequency and volume. When the entire above-ground part has withered, it is cut off and the pot with the bulb is moved to a cool, dry place.

Planting and replanting amaryllis

Transplantation can be carried out either after the amaryllis blooms, or at the end of the dormant period. On average, it is carried out once every three years, but if the pot is clearly small, then it can be done earlier. In the intervals between transplants, after a period of rest, it is advisable to renew the top layer of soil in the pot.

Advice. If you are just planning to get amaryllis, then take the choice of bulb seriously. It should be smooth, without signs of mechanical damage or signs of rotting. Be sure to smell it. It shouldn't smell bad. The optimal size of an amaryllis bulb for planting is approximately 7 centimeters.

Be also careful when choosing a pot. The above-ground part of the amaryllis is very heavy and, despite the earthen ball, a light plastic pot can easily tip over. Therefore, it is better to opt for a heavy ceramic pot. Moreover, it allows air to pass through to the roots much better. The size of the pot for amaryllis directly depends on the size of the bulb. It should be selected in such a way that there is no more than 3 centimeters from the bulb planted in the center from its edge to the edge of the pot. Planting in an overly large pot will slow down the flowering time. Amaryllis are often planted in a group of 3 plants in a large pot. In this case, the same rule is followed - the distance between the bulbs should be at least 3 centimeters.

The soil mixture for transplanting and planting amaryllis can be taken ready-made for bulbous plants. You can cook it yourself. simple and accessible.

Sod land - two parts;
Leaf soil - two parts;
Humus - one part;
Sand is one part.

Before planting an amaryllis bulb, thoroughly wash the pot, or even better, sterilize it. Also sterilize the soil for planting and. Inspect the bulb, remove old dark scales. It is advisable to soak it for 30 minutes in a solution of any fungicide before planting. Then dry it.

The amaryllis bulb should be planted so that a third of it is above the ground.

Amaryllis propagation

This flower can be propagated in two ways - by seeds and daughter bulbs.

Propagation of amaryllis by seeds

This method is not particularly popular due to unreliability and labor intensity. If you want to try this method, then preference should be given to seeds from your own plant rather than purchased ones. Of course, if you have your own amaryllis. To obtain seeds, flowers must be pollinated by hand. This can be done using a soft brush, transferring pollen from flower to flower. After flowering, a seed box should form. When it dries and cracks, you can collect the seeds. They are planted in light nutritious soil and grown as. Flowering of amaryllis grown from seeds can be expected after 5 years.

Propagation of amaryllis by daughter bulbs

With normal maintenance, small daughter bulbs are formed on the amaryllis bulb in peculiar pockets. They are carefully separated and planted in a temporary mixture of sand and peat or sand and. When the amaryllis bulbs grow a little and become stronger, they can be transplanted into a permanent soil mixture. Within a year after planting, the young bulb should reach half the size of the mother bulb. Amaryllis grown from daughter bulbs can expect flowering in 3-4 years.

Amaryllis doesn't bloom

There may be several reasons for this unpleasant phenomenon. But they are all a consequence of improper care and maintenance. The main ones:

No rest period;
The soil in the pot is too dense. Due to this, amaryllis roots develop poorly;
The bulb is too deep into the ground;
Incorrect watering. The soil in the pot is too wet or too dry.

If your amaryllis does not bloom, then analyze its care. And if you identify any of these reasons, eliminate it.

Caring for amaryllis - video

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