Absolutely any firearm, regardless of its caliber, operating principle and type of ammunition used, requires careful care, regular cleaning and lubrication. Otherwise, it may misfire at the most crucial moment, fail, which will entail serious expenses, or even become a threat to life! How to clean a hunting rifle, what rules must be followed and what do you need to know about cleaning and lubricating weapons?
Why do hunting weapons get dirty?
The reasons why a hunter's weapon becomes dirty are quite obvious. Forests, steppes, swamps, fields do not in any way resemble a scientific laboratory or a sterile hospital ward. No matter how carefully the gun is used during hunting, no matter how comfortable the conditions are when it is transported, its metal parts in the open air will inevitably come into contact with moisture and other unfavorable factors. And if you are unlucky with the weather or the weapon falls out of your hands...
In addition, cleaning the gun is necessary for another reason. The fact is that when fired, the barrel experiences high pressure and high temperatures. Hot gases and particles of burning gunpowder lead to the formation of “rashes” on the inner surface of the barrel - small pockets of rust that tend to further develop into shells. Soot from black powder has the property of attracting moisture.
In addition, cleaning smooth-bore weapons, like rifled weapons, allows you to get rid of soot, scale and so-called copper plating - residues of particles of a bullet or other ammunition in the bore. And although there is no universal answer to the question of how to properly clean a hunting rifle, it is strongly recommended to follow the basic principles.
When to clean
There is a fairly common misconception that says that frequent cleaning is harmful to the gun, as it leads to scratches, abrasion of chrome surfaces, and so on. It should be noted that if you neglect basic tips on how to properly clean a gun, then an expensive weapon can break down much faster - within a couple of years.
- after purchasing a new gun;
- in the process of shooting it;
- after every hunt;
- at the end of the season.
Cleaning the weapon immediately after purchase allows you to get rid of smudges of factory lubricant. In addition, this is another reason to carefully inspect the weapon in a calm environment, check the operation of the trigger mechanism on a spent cartridge case, and make sure the quality of the weapon’s assembly.
When zeroing on a stand or in a nearby ravine, the gun is cleaned literally after every shot. When using cartridges with smokeless powder, it is recommended to carry out hygienic procedures at every long rest, and when shooting with black powder - immediately after a hunt.
During the off season, the gun is, of course, not used. But this does not mean that it is guaranteed to be free from moisture and corrosion. It is advisable to carry out cleaning and lubrication monthly.
Cleaning and lubrication accessories
A standard gun cleaning kit usually includes the following components:
- cleaning rod consisting of 2-3 segments made of wood or aluminum;
- metal brush for removing carbon deposits, rust and metal residues;
- bristle brush for applying alkali-based lubricant;
- puff brush for neutral lubrication;
- vishers are special devices that are screwed onto a cleaning rod and have holes for holding rags or rags;
- brush for removing dust, dirt and debris;
- “toothpicks” - sharp wooden sticks for removing dirt from hard-to-reach places;
- a set of oils and lubricants.
Of course, this list may be subject to various changes, but the basic set consists of these elements. Moreover, such a set of tools and devices allows you to both clean the gun after a hunt and use it at a rest stop.
Step-by-step instruction
Before we tell you how to properly clean a weapon, it is necessary to focus on the fact that it must be unloaded! You need to make sure of this first!
After which you can begin manipulations, guided by the following algorithm:
- break the trunk or, if it is not breaking, dismantle it;
- screw a metalized brush onto the cleaning rod and walk it several times along the entire length of the barrel, removing the lead, which provokes rapid corrosion;
- the place of the brush on the cleaning rod is taken by a visher with a rag or rag inserted into it, and the cleaning process continues until traces of lead completely disappear on the material;
- if after two or three changes of rags traces of lead still remain, then the rag is moistened in kerosene or turpentine;
- the visher is replaced by a bristly brush, with a universal or neutral lubricant applied to it, distributed along the entire length of the barrel bore;
- external metal parts are thoroughly cleaned of dirt and dust and lubricated with a clean, lightly oiled rag;
- the same is done with wooden parts;
- the gun is assembled, if necessary, any grease that accidentally gets on it is removed from the wooden parts;
- the weapon is packaged and placed in a safe for storage.
The diagram below clearly shows how to clean a smoothbore gun with your own hands.
How to clean a gun from rust, lead and copper plating
Particles of powder gases and ammunition, preserved as sediment on the walls of the bore, can cause catastrophically rapid oxidation and corrosion. This is especially true for rifled weapons that use jacketless lead bullets or jacketed ammunition. For him, the appearance of rust threatens not only the prospect of a decrease in combat performance, but also failure.
To avoid problems, you need to prevent moisture from getting into the barrel. Sometimes it is impossible to avoid this due to precipitation, dew or high humidity. Then you need to get rid of the water as quickly as possible. So, for example, in winter, before cleaning the gun, you need to let it sweat, wrapping it tightly to prevent condensation.
How to clean a gun if the process of rust has already begun? It is necessary to thoroughly clean the barrel with a metal brush and a metal brush soaked in dehydrated kerosene. In case of old or severe corrosion, kerosene is poured into the barrel, plugged with a stopper and left for a day, after which it is cleaned with the same brush or brush.
Rust protruding from the outside or even the inside can be removed using waterproof glue. To do this, they need to be thoroughly washed from grease with a hot soda solution. Then heat it with a bowl of water or a gas burner and quickly apply several layers of diluted glue. Glue on hot surfaces dries instantly - all that remains is to re-apply universal lubricant to the treated parts.
If using a brush, a metal brush and the methods discussed above, you cannot get rid of rust, lead plating, copper plating and cupronickel plating, then you can try using a solution of the following composition:
- 28 g ammonium sulfate;
- 13 g ammonium carbonate;
- 170 g ammonia water;
- 100 g distilled water.
The solution is poured into the barrel, plugged on both sides with rubber stoppers and left for 30 minutes. After which the trunks are wiped dry and treated with alkaline lubricant.
This article provides basic rules and tips on how to clean a gun and in what cases it should be done. Many hunters come up with their own methods and know-how. The main thing is to remember: fairly expensive hunting weapons require constant attention, caring attitude and careful maintenance. If these conditions are met, then the gun will serve faithfully for decades!
Video
From this video you will learn how to quickly and easily clean your gun.
Weapons - like any equipment - ensure reliable operation only with appropriate care and conservation. Even the most reliable and unpretentious model requires careful and careful treatment. The cause of most weapon malfunctions is poor maintenance, the use of defective or inappropriate cartridges, as well as unprofessional “design improvements.” By taking care of the conservation of weapons, its owner takes care of his own life. During operation, the debugging of mechanisms is gradually disrupted, and sighting devices “go astray.” Therefore, periodic monitoring of the condition of the weapon, its ballistic properties and zeroing is necessary. Below we provide some recommendations and rules related primarily to service samples. However, they remain valid for other types of personal weapons.
Storage
The weapon should be stored in a clean, dry place. Of course, it is necessary to make the place where weapons are stored least accessible to outsiders, and here the best solution is a special weapons safe. Poorly stored weapons are more likely to be a bait for intruders than a protection against them. So, in this sense, it is as safe as possible not to have a weapon at all.
Gun safes are very diverse. It’s not bad if it can be hidden from prying eyes, but easily accessible to the owner of the weapon. Instead of safes, durable boxes with a combination lock and alarm are also used.
When storing weapons, they often resort to external locking of the trigger mechanism. Thus, American police have found a clever use for handcuffs - one of the bracelets snaps around the handle so as to block the trigger being pulled forward or the hammer being cocked. They also produce special locks that completely cover the trigger guard. The “electronic lock” system of the trigger mechanism offered to police officers looks exotic: an electronic circuit specially built into the pistol unlocks the trigger only by the magnetic code of the ring on the owner’s hand.
The weapon is stored unloaded, with the hammer or firing pin pulled. The safety of the pistols is turned on and the magazine is removed. Cartridges are stored separately in special packaging, away from heating devices or active chemicals. You can store a pistol in a holster, but it is better to keep them separately and “bring them together” only when necessary. The holster can be stored in the same weapon box or cabinet with the pistol, and to better preserve its shape and volume, load it with a shaped blank, say, made of polystyrene foam.
Children - regardless of their level of mental development - should not have independent access to weapons. Although this does not at all interfere with introducing them to weapons. For example, by helping adults clean and lubricate weapons, children will very soon stop looking at them as an entertaining toy.
Inspection
Before inspecting or disassembling a weapon, you must make sure that it is unloaded: for a pistol, this means that the magazine has been removed and there is no cartridge in the chamber. When inspecting a pistol, the barrel should be positioned in a safe direction and the ejection port should be kept away from the face.
When inspecting a pistol, attention is drawn primarily to the quality of the barrel and the absence of serious defects in the mechanisms. During an external inspection of the pistol, you should inspect the muzzle of the barrel, paying attention to ensure that the rifling stands out equally clearly. When inspecting the barrel bore against the light, it is necessary to make sure that there are no cavities, swelling, rust, copper plating, or damage to the chamber. The swelling of the barrel is noticeable in the channel in the form of a transverse dark solid ring or semi-ring; significant swelling is detected by the convexity of the metal on the outer surface of the barrel. Rust is visible in the form of dark spots on the walls of the barrel, copper plating - in the form of fine deposits, scratches - in the form of dashes. Rust, invisible to the eye, may appear as yellow spots on rags after wiping. When inspecting the pistol, you should also check:
Are there any rust, dirt, scratches, nicks or cracks on the metal parts;
What condition is the lubricant in?
Is the bolt, magazine, trigger mechanism, fuses, bolt stop, indicators (if any) functioning properly?
Is the position of the ejector on the axis correct, how preloaded is its spring, are there any chips or damage on the reflector;
Is the hammer (striker) held securely in the combat and safety cocking positions?
Are the front and rear sights in good working order?
Is the magazine held securely by the latch?
Is the bore clean?
Particular attention should be paid to the condition and quality of the springs. Homemade return and mainsprings will certainly cause delays when firing. Likewise, the spring and magazine feeder must be “original”. The spring should not be bent, the walls of the magazine should not have dents, bends should not have bends and cracks, the feeder protrusion (for double-row magazines) should not be crumbled.
There should be no crushed metal, scratches or bends on the parts of the trigger mechanism.
There should be no chips, damage, or distortion on the sighting devices relative to the longitudinal plane of the weapon.
The feeding and ejection mechanisms are checked without firing training or blank cartridges. It is also a good idea to use cartridges coated with black varnish. The cartridges are manually driven through the pistol without firing, and the marks on them can be used to judge the operation of the mechanisms. The reliability of the feeding mechanism is well demonstrated by firing cartridges with wadcutter-type bullets or with a hollow head. It is better to check the operation of the ejection mechanism by firing cartridges with a reduced charge.
When inspecting spent cartridges, you should pay attention to the firing pin mark - it should be round, the primer should not be pierced through or skewed. The good condition of the chamber walls is indicated by the absence of bulges and cracks on the walls of the cartridge case.
Cleaning and Lubrication
Keeping your weapon clean and in good working order requires periodic cleaning and lubrication. Even if the weapon remains “idle,” it occasionally needs care. If the gun is not in use, cleaning is done weekly. When going out into the field and shooting, the weapon is cleaned and lubricated after each exit and always after each shooting.
Before cleaning, partial disassembly is carried out according to the manual. If the shooting was intense, it is better to completely disassemble the weapon and clean all metal surfaces. But to do this, you need to master the process of complete disassembly and reassembly. Unskilled, “clumsy” disassembly (especially with blows and beating) is a sure way to ruin a weapon. For cleaning and lubrication the following are used: liquid gun lubricant, barrel cleaning solution (BCS), tow and rags, rubbing, special sticks sharpened for grooves and holes.
Pieces of old linen fabric are usually used as rags; it can be replaced with durable and light paper - lengin. To remove carbon deposits from hard-to-reach places, flat, hard hair brushes are often used.
The main detail of the weapon - after the owner's head, of course - is its barrel, from which cleaning begins. It “works” under difficult conditions of high temperatures and pressures developed by powder gases. During operation, the barrel is subject to wear for a whole range of reasons - mechanical (bullet friction, impacts of powder particles, elastic deformations), thermal (high temperatures, periodic expansion and return to its original state) and chemical. Mechanical impacts lead to abrasion of the edges of the rifling and the appearance of microscopic potholes, while thermal impacts lead to the formation of a mesh of heat and melting of the surface. During shooting, soot accumulates in the barrel, containing soluble and insoluble components. The first include salts (potassium chloride, potassium sulfate, potassium sulfite), the second - ash, tombac (from the bullet casing) or lead, brass melted from the cartridge case. Salts, absorbing moisture from the air, form a solution that causes corrosion (rusting) of the barrel metal, and the presence of insoluble components increases rusting. As a result of all these influences, the barrel bore expands, its surface changes, which worsens the ballistic data. When the barrel is heavily contaminated, the pressure of the powder gases increases significantly, which leads to its swelling and even rupture.
The composition of RHS is as follows: 200 g of ammonium carbonate and 3-5 g of chromium (potassium dichromate) per 1 liter of water. It is better to prepare RHS in clean enamel containers. When cleaning with liquid gun lubricant, a tow in the form of the number “8” is applied to the wipe; the RFS is cleaned with a bristle or metal brush. The debate between supporters of softer bristles and hard metal wire is still not over. Some owners prefer brushes made of bronze wire - it is quite rigid, but unlike steel, it scratches the walls of the barrel less. To clean the barrel bore, in addition to RFS, you can use a hot soda solution (3 g of soda ash (linen, washing) soda per 10 ml of water), a solution of soap in hot water, an alkaline composition based on spindle oil. Cleaning is done first from the muzzle side, then from the chamber side. The ramrod (wiping) with tow must be moved back and forth along the entire length of the trunk 7-10 times.
The wipe should be moved evenly, without sharp blows, so as not to break the muzzle or breech end of the barrel. During cleaning, you should change the tow a couple of times. Cleaning continues until the tow comes out of the trunk clean. The chamber and muzzle entrance of the barrel are cleaned in the same order. Then the bore should be wiped with dry tow or a white rag. If after this a trace of soot or greenery is found on it, the cleaning is carried out again.
It is useful to check the cleanliness of the bore a few hours after cleaning - the remaining microscopic carbon particles can begin their destructive effect during this time.
The automatic parts of the pistol are cleaned with a rag soaked in liquid gun lubricant or RSF, and then wiped dry. The bolt cup should be cleaned especially carefully - if it is dirty, the firing pin or ejector may fail. The remaining metal parts are wiped with a dry cloth, and if they are heavily soiled, they are cleaned with liquid gun lubricant and wiped dry. Wooden and plastic parts are wiped with a dry cloth.
If rust does appear on metal parts, it can be removed with a 10% perchloric acid solution, followed by treating the surface with kerosene or gasoline.
The lubricant is applied only to a clean and dry metal surface. Lubrication is carried out in the following order: using a cleaning rod (wiping) with a rag, evenly cover the barrel bore with lubricant; carefully lubricate the chamber and muzzle entrance; then, using an oiled rag, cover the remaining metal parts of the weapon with a thin layer of lubricant. An excessively thick layer of lubricant contributes to contamination of parts and mechanisms. The inner surface of the magazine must be free from lubricant - if lubricant gets on the capsule, it can lead to a misfire. Syringes can be used to lubricate grooves, holes, and sockets if their design matches the viscosity of the lubricant used.
Liquid lubricant tends to evaporate, so during long-term storage it must be renewed. Modern Teflon-based lubricants not only effectively reduce friction of parts, but also evaporate less. The use of various lubricating pastes can give the opposite effect to the desired one - particles clogged in the grooves will cause delays in the operation of automation and mechanisms.
At air temperatures from +5 to -5 degrees, you should use only liquid gun lubricant; from -5 to -40 degrees - winter lubricant No. 21. For preservation, use thick gun lubricant. After issuing the weapon from the warehouse (receipt at the store), this lubricant must be removed to avoid failure of the weapon. Grease removal is usually done with dehydrated kerosene.
After assembling the weapon, you must check the correct operation of its mechanisms. When testing without firing - as when training without firing - it is better to insert a training cartridge or an empty cartridge case into the chamber of the weapon for normal operation of the firing mechanism.
Just like the human body, a gun also needs care. Timely maintenance of mechanisms, including inspection, cleaning and lubrication operations, is as necessary for your weapon system as a daily shower is necessary for your body.
Competent and regular routine maintenance of the mechanisms of your weapon not only extends the service life and resource life of individual mechanisms in particular and the entire complex as a whole, but also has a positive effect on the performance of mechanics/automation, quality and ease of use, and shooting performance.
Many people understand these statements, because, perhaps, everyone who purchases a weapon with their own money is interested in preserving their weapon in the most pristine condition. However, few understand how to ensure this and how to maintain weapons correctly and safely.
Of course, each type of weapon is equipped with accompanying documentation, which usually indicates how often and exactly how basic weapon care operations should be performed. However, such documentation is not always available. And the information in this documentation may not always be applicable in modern reality. Anachronisms in recommendations, and sometimes quite controversial advice on care can confuse not only a beginner, but also an experienced gun owner.
That is why the main advice in matters of weapon care at all times has been to adhere to two dogmas: “Think with your head” and “Do no harm.” These simple statements actually contain the sacred meaning of caring for any mechanism. After all, it is measured, intelligent and safe care for the weapon itself that is the best and most reasonable option for its maintenance. Undoubtedly, for example, bathing in RSF solutions can be a successful option for removing soot, however, no one knows what the effect of such procedures is in the long term.
Thrift is the key. It’s not for nothing that our great-grandfathers, grandfathers and fathers told us “Treat weapons like a spoiled woman or a picky child.” Indeed, it is better to be “safe than safe”, to spend more time and effort, but to be sure that it is safe and reliable (especially for fairly expensive samples), than to quickly and easily carry out care in the style of “Shoved, spat, blinked - and forgot” and grieve over the dead trunk.
Store, transport and use your barrel carefully - this is one of the main bases for the care and maintenance of any weapon, excluding subsequent operations of the technical regulations of work. Careful storage and transportation in special cases or cases with a cap on the barrel, eliminating shocks and external influences, prolonged exposure to precipitation, storage in inappropriate conditions allows you to avoid labor-intensive, time- and money-consuming inspection, cleaning and lubrication operations, and will help preserve your weapon in the most pristine condition.
Even if your weapon can withstand being used as a hammer or nut cracker, being in a puddle of water that filled the Shishiga rut somewhere in the Krasnoyarsk Territory - treat it with care, with attention and do not allow (if possible) such harsh operating conditions - and it will be easier for you to care for it. Warn and exclude.
For the same purpose, it is worth excluding the use of low-quality cartridges in weapons (if such a possibility exists), which, in addition to the negative operation of the mechanisms and automation of the weapon, also negatively affect the weapon parts and lead to complex and difficult maintenance. Wear of parts, carbon deposits and other “delights” of using cheap and/or bad cartridges will lead to difficult inspection of mechanisms, complex and time-consuming cleaning, removal of old lubricant and application of new one. Use high-quality cartridges that are acceptable and recommended for your weapon, take only the best that you can find, even if you are omnivorous - and maintenance will be easier, and your life will be easier. Remember this.
If all this has been done, the operations of inspection, cleaning and lubrication, as the main ones in care, will be extremely simple and understandable, not too long - and even pleasant.
For example, a weapon inspection in this case is only a short visual inspection of the external and internal condition of the weapon - before and after use. No carbon deposits, wear and damage to parts (both external and internal), no loose parts, backlashes, jams, substandard operation of parts, etc. In addition, the presence/absence of lubricant, carbon deposits, lead and copper plating are visually monitored - that is, the cleanliness of the weapon is monitored. I repeat, visually - without the use of complex diagnostic tools.
Check and check that everything is intact and that everything works as it should. Monitor the integrity of the coating of external parts - for example, varnish on wood or bluing on the metal of the receiver. Check the weapon parts for play and looseness, and make sure that the swivels and sling are securely fastened. See if there is grease where it should be - and if there is grease where it shouldn't be. Make sure the quantity of lubricant (is there any excess) and its quality, the optimality of the lubricants used - their thickness and fluidity. Remove, if necessary, external and internal preservative grease, if any. Check the deposits before shooting and the deposits after firing.
Make sure that the sighting mechanisms, trigger operation, automation mechanisms, extraction mechanisms, and safety mechanisms are intact.
Complete the inspection operation.
If necessary (often after shooting), clean the barrel bore and weapon parts. Do not delay the cleaning operation, carry it out as often as you can - ideally after each shooting. However, carefully and accurately.
Use the included soft brushes and cleaning rods together with a soft, lint-free cloth - only natural. It is possible to use modern synthetic non-woven lint-free wipes for cleaning, etc. products, in certain situations, feminine hygiene products, such as tampons, etc., are also good for cleaning. products. For some cleaning parts, you can use so-called brushes and toothbrushes as cleaning agents; in some cases, riveted metal wire homemade cleaning rods are good.
Remember the main rule - thrift, accuracy, expediency and lack of unnecessary effort. Clean those components and mechanisms that need to be cleaned - this is indicated in the recommendations and diagrams (cleaning and lubrication diagrams, they can be found on the Internet, for example, on specialized forums) for your weapon, often these are the barrel bore, chamber and some other parts. Use only barrel cleaning products that you are confident in. Use only what is safe for you and for the weapon.
Recommendations on cleaning products are unnecessary here - everyone cleans with what they are used to. Everyone also removes copper and lead plating using what he is used to. Some people use VD-40 and homemade cleaning products, while others are apologists for kerosene or transformer oil. Everything applies, choose what you like specifically - but remember the main rules.
After cleaning, lubricate the necessary mechanisms. Use the dry or liquid lubricant you like - it could be classic gun oil, Ballistol or something else. Apply a thin layer of lubricant, avoiding excess, which can thicken and collect dust, causing failure - remove excess with paper or cloth.
The issue of external lubrication is debatable. Many still believe that weapons, or at least their barrels, should be lubricated on the outside to protect them from moisture and precipitation - with a thin layer of thick lubricant. In this matter, proceed from a position of reasonableness and expediency: blued barrels, for example, clearly should not be lubricated due to the pointlessness of this matter - they already have a protective film of oxides. If the barrels of your weapon are made of “black” carbon steel without treatment, you can lubricate them with a thin layer of lubricant without unnecessary zeal.
If the weapon is placed in long-term storage, treat it (inside and outside) with a preservation lubricant.
The final, but not mandatory, stage of weapon care is its additional external processing. So, for example, waxed and impregnated wooden stocks can be renewed by additionally impregnating them with oil or wax. Wooden stocks coated with varnish, if they have losses in the paint and varnish coating, can be re-varnished - completely or partially, if necessary, after staining. Lost bluing and chipped paint on metal are also worth restoring.
The weapon maintenance cycle has been completed. How many more such cycles there will be, God alone knows. However, let's hope that thanks to our advice there will be a lot of them (which will indicate a long life of the weapon) and they will only be a joy!
Handling weapons. You must always remember that improper handling of a weapon (shotgun or rifle, it doesn’t matter) can lead to an accident. Do not aim at people or animals, pull the trigger while the gun is pointed in a direction where people may be, carry a loaded shotgun or rifle where people are walking, etc., as the gun may fire unexpectedly. The culprit usually makes the excuse that he “did not know or think that the weapon was loaded.” Experienced shooters and instructors are right when they say: “An unloaded gun always fires.”
A weapon should always be treated as if it were loaded and could fire at any moment. This habit must not only be developed in oneself, but also instilled in other shooters who allow careless handling of weapons.
While at the stand or shooting range, the shooter must comply with the following rules:
— having picked up a gun or rifle, you immediately need to open the bolt and make sure that there is no cartridge in the chamber;
- having prepared the weapon for shooting, it must be immediately placed in the pyramid (you can take the gun only before entering the site);
— when entering and leaving the shooting range, the gun must be open (for a rifle, the bolt is open);
— on the line of fire, the weapon must lie on the table provided for it;
— the shooter can pick up the gun and load it at the shooting range only after the judge’s command (when shooting from the approach) or when it is his turn to shoot;
- with a loaded weapon, you should never turn back towards the judges and spectators;
— after finishing shooting, the shooter must immediately open the bolt and check whether there is a cartridge left in the chamber;
- when moving from number to number on a round stand or from site to site on a trench stand, from sector to sector at a shooting range, when carrying weapons across the territory of a stand or shooting range, the weapon must be open or placed in a case, the barrels of the weapon must be facing down or up;
- when traveling by train, in a car, etc., when climbing over fences, the weapon must be unloaded;
— at the end of shooting, the weapon must be thoroughly cleaned, placed in a case and deposited.
Weapons should always be protected from shaking, sudden shocks and impacts. You should not stack several shotguns or rifles in a pile, since it is enough for one of them to fall and nicks, dents or other damage will form on several of them.
When firing, you need to carefully ensure that there are no foreign objects in the bore of the weapon. Do not rest the muzzle of a shotgun or rifle on snow, ground, etc., as blockage of the bore will likely cause the barrel to swell or rupture on the next shot.
The mechanisms of a working gun should work easily and without delay. If you have to exert force when opening and closing the gun, this is a sign of a malfunction in its mechanism. Even if there is the slightest malfunction in the operation of the gun’s mechanisms, it must be repaired. Continuing to fire a faulty gun can damage other parts of the gun.
It is impossible to disassemble a weapon and repair it yourself without experience and the appropriate tools. It is best to have your weapon repaired by an experienced gunsmith.
Cleaning and preserving weapons. The weapon must be cleaned immediately after shooting. This need is due to the fact that the carbon deposits remaining in the barrel bore after a shot contain substances that, when combined with air moisture, cause rusting of the barrel. Soot from smokeless powder is easily removed by wiping the bore with a rag soaked in an alkaline compound.
In autumn and winter, when bringing a cooled weapon into a warm room, it should immediately be wrapped in a piece of cloth to avoid sweating.
You should not place a weapon near a hot stove, as a sudden change in temperature may warp the wood of the stock and forend. If the weapon is exposed to rain, it should be thoroughly dried before cleaning.
Having disassembled the gun (and separated the bolt of the rifle), they begin cleaning. Cleaning begins from the bore. Wrapping a piece of rag soaked in alkali (oil) over the cleaning rod, remove carbon deposits from the bore. Then clean the bore using a bristle or metal brush soaked in an alkaline composition. After this, wipe the barrel bore dry with a dry cloth. If the rag is dirty after wiping the barrel bore, then cleaning should be continued.
You need to wrap a rag around the cleaning rod in such a way that the cleaning rod moves in the barrel bore with little force. This is especially important when cleaning a rifle, since carbon deposits in the rifle must be removed not only from the rifling margins of the bore, but also from the rifling.
After cleaning the barrels from carbon deposits, you need to clean the other metal parts of the gun (rifle) from carbon deposits. After this, use a clean cloth soaked in neutral oil to wipe all metal parts.
The wooden parts of the weapon are thoroughly wiped with a clean, dry cloth. If it is necessary to disassemble the bolt and separate other parts of the rifle for cleaning, the parts, as they are separated, are laid out in order on a clean table. First of all, remove dirt, water, etc. from them with a dry cloth. Dried oil and dirt are wiped off with a cloth soaked in an alkaline composition or scraped off with a stick. If there is rust on the surface of the parts, the parts are first immersed in kerosene and then wiped thoroughly. Once all parts have been cleaned and wiped dry with a cloth, they should not be touched with dirty or sweaty hands.
If the weapon is cleaned promptly and thoroughly, it will retain its good qualities longer.
A day after the first cleaning, the barrel bore should be cleaned again, because a certain amount of powder gases, due to the high pressure in the bore of the weapon at the moment of firing, penetrated into the pores of the barrel metal. Gradually releasing from there and combining with air moisture, gases form substances that cause rusting of the weapon barrel. If a gun or rifle has not been fired for a long time, then periodically (at least once every 10 days) it must be inspected and cleaned; You need to inspect the barrel bore especially carefully.
When it is known in advance that the weapon will not be used for shooting for a long time, then after thorough cleaning it is lubricated with a thick layer of thick and fairly viscous oil (such as gun lard) and stored in this form in a clean, dry room.